104 posts / 0 new
Last post
Goose's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 year 2 weeks ago
Joined: 13/10/2014
The Goosemobile

Happy days, I fetched my Porschie from the Motorvia depot yesterday cool

It looks even better in person than in photos. I will post some nice pics soon, it just needs a good wash first.

Excellent news, it drives beautifully, bad news is we had to push start it. Either the battery is kaput, or the alternator is not charging it. The car is at my inlaws' place for now, with the battery on charge, so tonight I'll take it home and start fiddling in the garage.

 More bad news, there is a crack in the windscreen...that's going to make the roadworthy process a bit harder. Good news, the wood rim steering wheel is not too bad, and there is a semi decent gear knob too.

I can see the previous owners didn't put much time into the car, but that's okay, gives me more to do. Will have to replace all the dash switches, as they are a bit dodgy. Also, will have to move the steering wheel up a bit, as all I can see on the speedo is 0 up to 40km/h and then again from 140 and up. So inbetween is a mystery.

It's got flared wheelarches, but they don't look bad. The wife wants me to keep them and put Fuchs wheels on, but I'm still keen to go back to original. Will have to see what happens. It's got some TSW rims or something on now with 185 wide tyres, and I must say it does look good with the wider tekkies. But a 5.5" x 15" wheel ill also take a 185.

Originally the car was going to be as close to stock as possible, but seeing as I'm not going to be entering it in any concours events, I think I'll rather personalise it more...

Will post pics soon.

manny's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 weeks 3 days ago
Joined: 12/08/2014
Goosemobile

Goose,

Congratulations on your Goosemobile, I am happy to hear that you are pleased with the speedster.

Please upload pics of your speedster.

 

1958 Porsche 356A Speedster T2 Replica (The Black Sheila)

"To achieve the impossible, one must think absurd; to look where everyone else has looked, but to see what no one else has seen"

Alan P's picture
Offline
Last seen: 3 years 8 months ago
Joined: 18/09/2014
Congrats Gerhardt, I'm really

Congrats Gerhardt, I'm really pleased for you.. it's always a happy occasion when you get your first Speedy, enjoy it buddy, and hope you have many many happy Km's together..Keep us all updated..
Cheers

Alan

Bossie2004's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 years 10 months ago
Joined: 30/09/2014
Great Stuff G,

Great Stuff G, congratulations are in order, hope it is going to be a blessed project and provide you with Lots o' Fun and enjoyment.  I love those flared wheel arches / sebring look.  Keep us posted.

Cheers,

Marius.

Marius V.

 

Goose's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 year 2 weeks ago
Joined: 13/10/2014
Week one

So...exciting times. Car is still at my mechanic/electrician/father-in-law's house. We had it at a friend's house to check the alternator, as the battery wasn't charging. Turns out the alternator is in fact the worlds biggest generator. Also, the voltage regulator is screwed, so busy fitting a new one now. Hopefully tonight I'll be able to drive the car to my house, where it belongs Smile

The best news is that I am actually able to use the clutch and drive the car, which I thought was still a few weeks/months away, as my legs are still weak from the GBS. I can't even put in the clutch on my wife's spark. Luckily I can also drive the new Polo at the moment. Thank you VW for DSG Smile

Another upgrade to add to the list - alternator.

Also, we noticed something quite peculiar when we looked at the wheels. Rear wheels are 185 65 R15....all good. Front wheels are 205 60 R15 ... Now I am not an expert, but that doesn't sound right to me...

Also, I've changed my mind back to the original plan of removing the flared wheelarches and fitting original wheels.

I have to still see what the best way would be to do that. I can ask a local guy to do it and give him measurements, but I don't know how it's gonna turn out. The other idea I had was to ask the guys at Universal if they can make me some panels for the 4 wheelarches, with about 15 or 20cm of material around each arch, and then I get someone local to cut out the current arches and fit those panels. At least then I know the arches are going to be perfect, and the local guy will just have to join the new panels to the body, instead of fabricating new ones.

Any thoughts from you guys?

Alan P's picture
Offline
Last seen: 3 years 8 months ago
Joined: 18/09/2014
Cool news, and so the fixups

Cool news, and so the fixups and fettling begins..

It sounds like the PO swapped rear with front for either wear issues, or handling issues. Best bet start looking for a matching set of 4 wheels and tyres I guess. As for the panels\arches, no idea buddy. I think you need to be 100% certain what you want at the end of the day before you start trying to do things. Do you want to keep the flares, and go the outlaw look\feel, or are you wanting to go back to original classic look. Then start making plans etc.

I'm sure whichever route you go, it's going to turn out sweet and you'll be a happy camper bud.

cheers

Al

manny's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 weeks 3 days ago
Joined: 12/08/2014
Wheel Arches

Hi Goose,

When you do contact Universal concerning the wheel arches remember to ask that the fronts arches to be reference from the "A" pillar and for the rear arches referenced from the " B" pillar. This will allow you to place them accurately.

wheel_arches.jpg

As for the 356 wheels I might have a solution, not 100% definite but a strong possibility, hang in there I will give you feedback by end of this week.

 

 

1958 Porsche 356A Speedster T2 Replica (The Black Sheila)

"To achieve the impossible, one must think absurd; to look where everyone else has looked, but to see what no one else has seen"

Goose's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 year 2 weeks ago
Joined: 13/10/2014
Spoke to Garth at UP, he is

Spoke to Garth at UP, he is willing and able to make the new wheel arches for me and at a great price. Time to start saving Smile

I am also looking for a set of interior door handles for the car. The 356 handles look alot like the early VW handles. Going to need the handles, ivory coloured seats, and probably the mechanisms for inside the doors too. I can get all of it for about 800 bucks new from Volkspares, but an older set would add some character...so every time I drive past a scrap yard or old beetle, you can bet I'm going fishing for handles.

Anyone in possession of said handles, please drop me a mail.

Here are some pics of what I have in mind:

door_handle.jpg

handle_seat.jpg

 

Bossie2004's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 years 10 months ago
Joined: 30/09/2014
Phone oom Raymond, he is from

Phone oom Raymond, he is from Piet Retief (the town, not the brigade) - he had some nice "charactered" handles at the Aircooled Day at POMC beginning of the month - he pitched there with a double axle trailer full of spares - he will be able to help you  082 333 3864.  I've bought the same handles and the door mechanisms from him for about R120.

Marius V.

 

Goose's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 year 2 weeks ago
Joined: 13/10/2014
Thanks alot, will give him a

Thanks alot, will give him a call

It looks like you know a oom for everything...cheeky

manny's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 weeks 3 days ago
Joined: 12/08/2014
Door Handles

I also used the old Beetle door handles and the old beetle door mechanisms.

door_handles.jpg

1958 Porsche 356A Speedster T2 Replica (The Black Sheila)

"To achieve the impossible, one must think absurd; to look where everyone else has looked, but to see what no one else has seen"

Goose's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 year 2 weeks ago
Joined: 13/10/2014
Breakdown of the last few

Breakdown of the last few days' work:

Managed to scrub and polish up the windscreen frame so it looks good as new. Ditto for the windscreen.

Polished up the chrome bits of the steering wheel, it now looks like a mirror and not like it came off a trailer. Also fixed the horn button and it's housing. Some bright spark had painted/tipexed the entire thing white, and it was looking a bit nasty. Sanded off all the white paint down to the black plastic, and polished a bit to get it smooth. Also had to modify the button a bit with a drill and some wire as the horn button kept popping out. Also noticed that there is no actual horn on the car when I was scratching around the front bumper and headlights yesterday...

On Saturday I pulled the car out the garage and gave it a good wash and polish, so now it looks pretty good. Also managed to fall out of my wheelchair right into the puddle where I had just emptied the bucket of soap water and with the hose pipe spraying me and the car and the whole eastern cape. Luckily all I have to show for it is a sprained toe.

The main aim for the moment is to get the car roadworthy. The alternator is coming out this week and going for surgery. Then some wiring to be re-done. I had to strip all the covers under the dash to find the fuse box. It is pretty well hidden and only accessible if your head is in under the dash, so not ideal. It also has only 5 or 6 fuses. So a new fuse box is in order. Lights come on, but no brights. Indicators all work except the front right. Brake lights don't work.

The door handles are also a thing. Interior handles are from a much later beetle, so don't fit the car. Outside handles are non VW/Porsche and are not connected or connnectable to the door latch from inside the door. I don't think they were ever functional. Also the interior handle mechanism seems to be connected to the latch with a piece of wire from a farm gate. I think I'm going to have to find/buy an entire door lock and handle setup, with interior and exterior handles, and all the latches and mechanisms too.

Would old beetle parts work for this?

Goose's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 year 2 weeks ago
Joined: 13/10/2014
First piccie of the car in my garage

img-20141022-00062.jpg

manny's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 weeks 3 days ago
Joined: 12/08/2014
Latches

Hi Goose,

The catch/ latch system is stock VW beetle parts and works fine, the trick is how to connect the outer door handle and the inner door handle to the latch mechanism. Wire works fine I used the thicker Blou-Draad  the reason for this is I moved my inner door handle further forward and the stock wire is to short .

 

p2090952.jpg

dscn0730.jpg

img_0242.jpg

img_0241.jpg

img_0239.jpg

 

 

1958 Porsche 356A Speedster T2 Replica (The Black Sheila)

"To achieve the impossible, one must think absurd; to look where everyone else has looked, but to see what no one else has seen"

Goose's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 year 2 weeks ago
Joined: 13/10/2014
update

Just an update for you guys on my progress, or lack thereof, so far.

The car is in my name and I have new EC number plates for it. Still need to put it through roadworthy to get the license disks.

I stripped all the top bits off the engine to get the alternator out, it is now at the repair shop, awaiting parts. The fan shroud was looking a bit rough, so I managed to source a replacement oldie which is in great shape from a gentleman in town. Also managed to get some more tinware for around the cylinders and the oil cooler, and the door handles and mechanisms I require, so all in all a good day. Going to clean them up nicely now and then it's time for paint. I'll post pics of the finished product.

I removed the front seats to see what was going on under them, and found the reason for the lack of adjustability. The brightspark who rubberised the pan also rubberised the hell out of the rails of the seats. So a good cleaning is in order. I had a bit of a fiddle with a scraper and sandpaper and the seats are at least moving now, albeit with a lot of help. Also found that someone had torn the bolts out of the bottom of the seats when they couldn't adjust them, and then just drilled new holes next to the torn out holes, so I'll have to do some surgery to the seat bottoms or they will just tear again.

At the moment I am doing some research on fitting 3 point retractable seatbelts, as my wife will not travel long distances in the car with me if there are no seat belts. She doesn't seem impressed with lap belts either.

I've removed the engine lid, and taken it's brackets out for a bit of cosmetic work. Going to replace the very tired struts for the decklid and bonnet with some gabriel gaslift struts. Don't want the lids falling on my head when I work, I am already using the legs off my garden table to prop up the bonnet. Midas can supply the gas struts and can fill them to the correct pressure for the weight of the lids, as the standard one is waaaaay too strong for the glassfibre lids. The engine lid is also going to get some surgery, to improve looks and air flow. It has a ugly interior support structure that is way too big and unnecessary, and only has very small openings on the side for air to go through, so I will make it a bit smaller, add a few large holes, and it should look and work a lot better.

I found a good set of old steelie rims, which I'm going to have cleaned and painted, and together with the baby moon hubcaps will have to do until I make a plan for more correct wheels. Going with 165 65 R15 tyres.

Stripped the roof assembly: The roof support bows had velcro strips tied to them with string, which fasten to velcro strips on the inside of the roof. Pretty sure thats not right. So the bows are going to get a nice shiny black coat of paint and new shiny bolts and nuts. And a new way will be found to attach them to the roof. Also found that the header bow has broken in half, so I'm going to have to remove it from the setup and do some surgery on it.

Also decided to refurbish my old mirrors instead of buying new ones. I've spent slot of time on them getting the crappy paint off, filing away the pitting and rough edges, and sanding them so they are as smooth as a baby's bottom, so this week they'll go it for rechroming. PG glass cut me two new round mirrors for 20 bucks, so pretty happy with them.

So on my immediate to do list is: get the alternator back in and the engine back together, check and overhaul if necessary the brakes, fix the electrical problems, and then get it through roadworthy.

 

white_356's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 years 11 months ago
Joined: 22/10/2014
Update

Good work Goose.

 

It's like an artist with a sculpture. You mold it to your liking and others are fascinated by it wink

Just a note of caution with the gas struts for the deck lid on the engine bay - I replaced mine three times already but they only last a year or two, then they loose their pressure ... I'm not sure what the issue actually is. I assumed that they don't like the heat from the engine. I'm actually investigating alternative options to keep the lid up 'cos mine IS CONSTANTLY FALLING ON MY HEAD currently angry

A Citi Golf rear bootlid gas strut works perfect for the front boot lid of the Speedster.

 

manny's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 weeks 3 days ago
Joined: 12/08/2014
Cool update

Cool update, post some pics of your projects before and after.

Thanks for mentioning the gas struts and thanks Wessel for sharing your experience with the gas struts, I have just gained helpful information as we are in the process of installing gas struts on my speedster.

As for the three point seat belt I hope this image below will give you an idea on installing a three point safety belt.

sbeltinstall2.jpeg

1958 Porsche 356A Speedster T2 Replica (The Black Sheila)

"To achieve the impossible, one must think absurd; to look where everyone else has looked, but to see what no one else has seen"

Goose's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 year 2 weeks ago
Joined: 13/10/2014
Good to know, maybe I'll make

Good to know, maybe I'll make another plan with the engine lid then.

On those citi golf struts, do you by any chance know the pressure or rated force on them?

I measuerd the rear lid to weigh about 6kg's, and with the formula on the Gabriel website I calculated that I would need about 2 Bar of pressure which equated to 100N of force from the strut. but to be safe I wanted to go with the 30Bar and 150N.

I am not sure what the bonnet weighs, but I'm guessing about 12kg? Using that formula then I would probably need 50 Bar or 250N.

Goose's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 year 2 weeks ago
Joined: 13/10/2014
Quick maths update....Gabriel

Quick maths update....Gabriel's formula is up to sh1t, it doesn't allow for the angle of the strut relative to the bonnet.

So with the following assumptions in mind: Strut when compressed is 300mm, strut is fastened to the body at 150mm below the hinge point of the bonnet, Bonnet weighs between 12kg and 15kg, it's centre of weight point is at 500mm from the hinge, gravity of 10 for simplicity

The portion of the force exerted by the strut in the correct direction to counter the weight of the bonnet is a function of the angle of the strut to the bonnet, and is the smallest when the bonnet is fully closed, so we will use it as the point for calculations.

So if the bonnet weighs 15kg, a strut with 500 Newtons will be required(to give a force of 288.4N in the correct direction that counters the force of the weight of the bonnet), and for a bonnet that weighs 12 kg, 400N will be required. Given that Gabriel prescribes a 10 to 15% safety factor, those values jump to 440/550 to 460/575.

The strut prescribed for the City Golf is the Gabriel 4065, and is rated 510N, so this mathematically backs up White356's statement that a City Golf strut will work like a bomb for the bonnet Smile

As you can tell I am not currently terribly busy at work.

white_356's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 years 11 months ago
Joined: 22/10/2014
Gas Struts

image_1.jpgimage_0.jpgimage.jpg

 

Goose,

 

at last i got a chance to take photos for you.... The white Gabriel strut in the photo is one of two which I have in the engine bay to keep the engine lid open - as I mentioned I replaced the three times as they loose pressure over time presumably from heat in the engine bay. I still need to figure out what to do there that will work on long run.

The black one in the other photos is the Citi Golf strut which holds my boot lid open...I  tried to find some specs for you but very little is written in the strut other than VW and Audi logo, brand name and some warning. I attached photos of that as well.

Hope you come right.

Cheers 

Wessel

 

 

 

Bossie2004's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 years 10 months ago
Joined: 30/09/2014
Goose, just ensure that the

Goose, just ensure that the strut doesn't rip the bonnet off when its to strong, or you break it off the hinges when trying to close it!  I've got a pair at home that a mate took of his wife's Huyndai Getz - the were too "pap" to keep the hatch open, so he replaced it - I got the "pap" ones, and could not get it squeezed in - luckily I tried it before installing it, else I might have had a hole in the bonnet!

Marius V.

 

Goose's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 year 2 weeks ago
Joined: 13/10/2014
Found some inspiration, this

Found some inspiration, this will be the colour of the Goosemobile.

25895210-770-02x.jpg

They call it Aquamarine Metallic on this site, but the other aquamarine metallic cars I've seen appeared much lighter. Still, I like this one. I'll just use a slightly darker leather for the interior. As per the following pic:

bn-al791_1120my_m_20131119122715.jpg

I'm very much leaning towards Pre A now instead of 356A as well...Don't kill me FFF Smile

So shine down light in the back, beehives, baby moon hubcaps etc. Only part where I'm going to deviate a bit will be the gauges, as I'm doing 2x100mm and 2x50mm black and chrome Smiths gauges, so I'm going to have one smaller gauge on the dash to the left of the steering wheel.

 

white_356's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 years 11 months ago
Joined: 22/10/2014
Goosemobile inspiration

I just love the colour of the interior. 

Watching this space in anticipation ....wink

Alan P's picture
Offline
Last seen: 3 years 8 months ago
Joined: 18/09/2014
Nice.. Keep it up Gerhardt.

Nice.. Keep it up Gerhardt.

FYI. on my Speedy, I have a metal sliding bracket that you lift the lid to the max, then come back slightly and it latches. So it's a completely manual type strut both front and rear, but it's idiotproof, and puts no pressure on hinges or the bodywork. Yes those struts might be "trick" items, but I think as has been mentioned, when you compress the strut to close a lid, you'll put the mounting point under a load of pressure.

Cheers

Alan

Goose's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 year 2 weeks ago
Joined: 13/10/2014
Ja I also have those struts

Ja I also have those struts you mention. The one in the engine compartment is okay, I'll stick to it, but the one up front is dodgy...I can see it falling on me still. Front I still want to go with a gas strut, but I'll modify the brackets so they distribute the force a bit better. I don't want holes in my bonnet smiley

Yesterday was an interesting day, I managed to work on the car a bit after work. By the time I got to the in laws where the car is parked now, the engine was completely out and on a stand. This allowed me to see the bad condition that the pan is in. The body will have to come off and the pan will need repairing or replacing. Obviously not what I wanted to see. Also allowed me to see that the exhaust and j-pipes were welded together, so new j pipes will be needed when I get the new exhaust.

The drivers side seat is now sorted, and can be adjusted by hand, not by hammer. Took off the passenger side seat to discover.....the left hand side seat rail is completely rusted off and is tied to the floor with a cable tie...so not safe at all. Unfortunately my father in law just sold the beetle pan he had last weekend, else I could have used some bits off there for the repairs. Shit happens.

Wiring on the car seems worse than I imagined, too, so it will be completely rewired. 

So....my idea of doing some quick fixes to get the car roadworthy is now one of the past. Won't be driving the car very soon. But on the bright side, all of this can be done and it will still cost me less than the other cars advertised around the country. Just going to take a bit longer. 

I am so impatient to drive this car now smiley

Goose's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 year 2 weeks ago
Joined: 13/10/2014
I thought your car was Ivory?

I thought your car was Ivory? Ja I really love the non metallic aquamarine too, but the wife seems more keen on the metallic.

It's difficult to make up your mind about the colour. For a while I was in love with a Fjord Green car I'd seen, but they don't always look the same in the pics. Sometimes it's a blue-green that really looks like the waters in a fjord, and other times it's just plain green.

Also love the very dark blue, sometimes they call it Bali blue, but google bali blue and you see 100 different shades....

But the colour on the pic posted below is my current flavour of the week, so hopefully I can stick to it, and hopefully the local spray shop can match it.

Goose's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 year 2 weeks ago
Joined: 13/10/2014
Update January 2015

Progress on the Speedster has been slow but steady. Most the work done over December has been on the engine.

I have added the electronic ignition module to my distributor, as well as fitting a new Bosch coil to work with said upgrade. Also fit a new set of ignition leads, new fuel filter and new fuel pipes. Fit a new oil seal too, just for good measure, as well as replacing the starter motor bush. Also replaced all nuts and bolts for the tinware assembly with shiny stainless steel ones. Also fit new intake manifold rubber sleeves and gaskets.

Not fitted yet but purchased are a set of smooth hubcaps, ivory door handle seats and new door handles. I managed to get a free set of the handle mechanisms off a set of doors that was lying about a gentleman here in town's yard. And found a pair of nice gas struts at a local scrap yard that are in good condition. Just waiting on Midas to get back to me about fittings...they are not the fastest.

Then a lot of cleaning and painting went into the tinware, as well as the pulleys. Everything got put back together ready to go back in the car when Murphy struck Smile I decided to replace all the spark plugs too - and in the process stripped the thread on the number one cylinder head. Think its a combination of my inexperience and general crap condition of threads. So we took everything apart again and sent the engine off to have inserts put in. Engine's back now, but I think I want to clean and polish a bit more before I assemble it again.

Removed the fuel tank and inspected. It looks to be in really good condition and only about a teaspoon worth of dirt came out of it. I then set about prettying the tank up which involved: paint stripper and wire brush to get it down to bare metal, painted it with black etch primer for corrosion protection, sanded it smooth, painted with gloss black spray paint, sanded again and sprayed again. Its pretty shiny now and in a day or two when it is properly hard and dry I will polish it. The filler cap has also been polished a bit.

The results on the tank have motivated me to do the same kind of work on the fan shroud. I've taken a drill with a wire brush to the intake manifolds so they look good as new. I will post pics of the finished products soon.

 

 

manny's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 weeks 3 days ago
Joined: 12/08/2014
Good Stuff

Hi Goose,

Glad to see you making progress.

A project like this is very educational, you learn as you go along, the best part is when you see the results of your work and that just motivates you to take on bigger tasks.

What electronic module did you install?

Yes! Please do post some pics of the end product

1958 Porsche 356A Speedster T2 Replica (The Black Sheila)

"To achieve the impossible, one must think absurd; to look where everyone else has looked, but to see what no one else has seen"

Goose's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 year 2 weeks ago
Joined: 13/10/2014
yo

I used the AccuSpark Stealth module that Flatfour Racing in Cape Town sells.

My father in law uses one in his Karmann Ghia, and it works like a charm. Havent fired my engine up since fitting it, but I'm sure it will be fine. I kept the points and condenser as spares just in case Smile

The module itself is very easy to fit, no modification is necessary.

Goose's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 year 2 weeks ago
Joined: 13/10/2014
Engine is back in

Just a comparison piccie of the engine before work started and now  Smile

20140920_140904.jpeg

img-20150217-00119.jpg

Now that the engine is back in I can start fitting the new hoses and the wiring. As soon as it's running again I can also do an oil change and check the condition of the oil strainer, and fit a new gasket to the sump.

Next up is the brakes, and then it's off down the road to the auto electrician for a complete rewire. I've seen the job he did on my father in law's Karmann Ghia, so I trust him to do a great job.

Aside from this, I've fit one of the scrapyard scavenged gas strut to the bonnet....two problems: It fouls on the corner of the petrol tank, so I'll have to do a little modification to the bracket where it fastens to the body. Also, it is not 100% strong enough. It is a 370N strut off a Mercedes A class bootlid, which normally uses two. At the moment it holds up the bonnet perfectly when it's open fully and up to about half way down it works, but lower than that and it can't stop the bonnet from falling. So either I fit the second strut opposite this one, or I buy a new, stronger gas strut.

 

manny's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 weeks 3 days ago
Joined: 12/08/2014
Nicely Done!

Goose,

Nicely done looking good.

The gas struts is still a issue on my speedster Armand and I briefly touched on the subject, so it will be interesting to see what will your final setup be like. Keep us posted.

1958 Porsche 356A Speedster T2 Replica (The Black Sheila)

"To achieve the impossible, one must think absurd; to look where everyone else has looked, but to see what no one else has seen"

white_356's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 years 11 months ago
Joined: 22/10/2014
Nice!!!

looking good Goose!!!!

flatfourfan's picture
Offline
Last seen: 8 months 6 days ago
Joined: 23/02/2015
Progress is awesome goose....

Progress is awesome goose......stick with it. Will be doing another order around May, so start saving up now boet. 

1955
2.0 8v Water-Cooled.

Goose's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 year 2 weeks ago
Joined: 13/10/2014
...

Welcome back Smile

Okay small update. The engine ran again yesterday for the first time since October last year. Starts after half a turn thanks to the new ignition and runs nice and smoothly. I still have to fine tune the carb a bit as it cuts out when idling when the engine is cold. But I downloaded a guide/novel on how to set the carb form the vw-resource website, so on Saturday it should be sorted. There's no wire going to the choke on the right hand side of the carb, so I've just opened it all the way for now...don't know why the PO didn't wire it up. Hopefully it functions as intended. I'm not 100% sure where it must get it's power from, but google will reveal all. Unless one of you gents tells me first smiley

My fuel line has sprung a leak inside the tunnel...maybe from all the wiggling to get the old hoses of the ends, or from the compressed air I put through it to give it a clean. So also on the agenda for Saturday is a new fuel line. I'll probably not put it inside the tunnel. A whole new pan is waiting for the car to be transplanted onto later in the year, so for now it will do.

The gas strut is installed and working well enough in the front, I'll take a pic soon. I had issues where the bottom end of the strut was interfering with the corner of the fuel tank, but I made a small modification with a hammer and a hole saw, and now it has about a 2mm gap between the two...success.

Bossie2004's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 years 10 months ago
Joined: 30/09/2014
Goose,

Goose,

here is the wiring diagram for a 63 beetle, so the choke gets power from the coil - same side as your oil pressure switch

 63_beetle_wiring_diagram.jpg

63_beetle_wiring_diagram_legend.jpg

 

Marius V.

 

manny's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 weeks 3 days ago
Joined: 12/08/2014
Gas struts

Goose,

I am eager to see what you did with them gas struts, cant wait for the pics.

 

1958 Porsche 356A Speedster T2 Replica (The Black Sheila)

"To achieve the impossible, one must think absurd; to look where everyone else has looked, but to see what no one else has seen"

Goose's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 year 2 weeks ago
Joined: 13/10/2014
Update May 2015

Got an early Xmas present from SMC last week...just in time for the car's rewire.

img_0080.jpg

Along with these I'll be lengthening the steering column slightly and removing the beetle ignition/indicator unit and going back to something closer to the original speedster setup. Got a very nice ignition switch for the dash after some searching, as well as a more period correct indicator switch.

Still busy with the brakes, now I have perished and leaking brake lines. I've replaced all the brake shoes now. Fitting some new slave cylinders at the back and a new master cylinder. It's been fun and games driving the car around. It goes beautifully, but the last trip I took I had to drive all the way back through town with zero brakes which is a bit frightening. All the brake fluid escaped through the leaking lines and into the left rear drum. The hand brake also only started touching when the handle was pulled up past my ear. Thank goodness for engine braking. Hopefully by the end of this week the brakes will be sorted for good. A future disc brake conversion is definitely on the cards.

Here's a pic of our first breakfast run in the speedy. Ghia belongs to my in-laws.

img_0082.jpg

I've also been doing some thinking, and tell me what you think about it...I want to buy a decent set of racing seats, and when I have the car upholstered inside I'll have them upholstered in leather too, and then fit some 4 point harnesses. I was planning on using normal retractable safety belts with my current seats, but that idea is on hold for now. I bought a retractable belt, but it had a safety feature where it wouldn't work if mounted horizontally like I planned, only vertically, and I am not going to tamper with my seatbelts. The other alternative is static 3 point seatbelts.

If I can get a nice looking pair of seats (not too bulky or too modern) and have them upholstered in leather I think it would look good. I also have this crazy idea of entering the car in next year's hill climb in Knysna, so proper seats and harnasses would be a necessity.

 

 

manny's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 weeks 3 days ago
Joined: 12/08/2014
Very cool

Hi Goose,

Yip! Christmas did come early, very nice gauges, if you need... I have a CAD/ PDF drawing on the layout of the gauges send me a PM and I will mail it to you. As for the leaky brake pipes I would suggest replacing it with steel braided brake pipes.

The seats... this all depends on the look your trying to achieve, as mentioned before a speedster is a fun project, a blank canvas its up to each individual how he wants his speedy to look like, some of us want a more authentic look others want a custom look. If you are going for  a more authentic look then I would suggest contacting Anton Dekker at exclusive conversions http://www.exclusiveconversion.co.za/  he has the correct seat mold for a 356 speedster.

20140310_162741.jpg

 

Manny

 

 

1958 Porsche 356A Speedster T2 Replica (The Black Sheila)

"To achieve the impossible, one must think absurd; to look where everyone else has looked, but to see what no one else has seen"

Goose's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 year 2 weeks ago
Joined: 13/10/2014
11/05/15 Update

The last week's activities:

Fit new master brake cylinder and brake light switch

Fit new slave cylinders to all 4 wheels,

Replaced perished and leaking hose

Cleaned up the brake fluid reservoir, polished its bracket and moved it to a better location so it doesn't get in the way when removing the fuel tank

Tripped over a rubber mallet that was lying on the floor, fell a k@k shot and broke my toe.

 

 

manny's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 weeks 3 days ago
Joined: 12/08/2014
Goose wrote:

Goose wrote:

The last week's activities:

Fit new master brake cylinder and brake light switch

Fit new slave cylinders to all 4 wheels,

Replaced perished and leaking hose

Cleaned up the brake fluid reservoir, polished its bracket and moved it to a better location so it doesn't get in the way when removing the fuel tank

Tripped over a rubber mallet that was lying on the floor, fell a k@k shot and broke my toe.

 

 

Ouch! that must have been painful, in-spite of the accident good progress

 

1958 Porsche 356A Speedster T2 Replica (The Black Sheila)

"To achieve the impossible, one must think absurd; to look where everyone else has looked, but to see what no one else has seen"

Alan P's picture
Offline
Last seen: 3 years 8 months ago
Joined: 18/09/2014
Eish! Bummer buddy.. Hope it

Eish! Bummer buddy.. Hope it's not too painful.. At least you're making good progress on the Speedy.

Keep it up.

regards

Al

oltman's picture
Offline
Last seen: 4 years 2 months ago
Joined: 10/05/2015
Eina!

Eina! Sounds painful just thinking about it!

Goose, where did you find the km/h gauges? SMC only seem to have mph ones? (I know, I am jumping the gun a bit here, just curious!)

Goose's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 year 2 weeks ago
Joined: 13/10/2014
speedometer

SMC had a sale on the kmh gauges a few weeks ago, thank goodness I jumped on it immediately or I would have missed it surprise Sorry Gary I know I was going to join in on your and Roger's order but I couldn't take a chance of missing out on it.

Luckily I know that you can also get the km/h speedo from vintagespeedsterparts.com, so when the time comes you can order from there. They are in Canada as far as I know.

Price currently is about $100. You should keep in mind that the VDO gauges are probably of a higher quality (so they say), hence the higher price ($274 from SMC). Think this one is made in China. But it is perfectly good for me, and to be honest the tachometer that I got from SMC that costs $274 doesn't really look like much better quality.

The speedometer is also a mechanical unit, so no need for extra sensors or GPS units like with the Beck Speedster speedometer.

Keep an eye out for sales at SMC, a while ago they had the combination fuel/temp gauges on sale too for $100. Now it's back up to $180.

manny's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 weeks 3 days ago
Joined: 12/08/2014
Gauge Options

I think it is very important to understand that two types of replica gauges are currently available for 356 replica cars namely Chinese and Beck VDO, why they call it the Beck VDO simply because Carey Hines and VDO had a lot to do with introducing these gauges to the replica world. These Beck VDO gauges is of better quality and is dimensionally closer to the original 356 gauges which is Ø100mm, and the Chinese gauges are larger which is Ø105mm. 

Vintage speedster and until a few weeks ago Sierra Madre Collection sold Chinese/Old VDO gauges(some believe SMC sold the old larger Brazilian VDO gauges, I sourced my gauges from SMC and my gauges indicates made in China) Gerhardt what does your gauges indicate?

SMC introduced a sale a few weeks ago to clear stock of the Chinese/Old Brazilian VDO gauges, hence the reason why Gerhardt got those gauges from SMC and at those prices,(good move by the way never to be repeated). SMC will no longer keep stock of the Chinese/Old Brazilian VDO gauges, they now only keep stock of the new Beck VDO gauges, also the reason why the Km/h gauge is no longer available, Beck is currently working with VDO to introduce a Km/h gauge....TBA

The Chinese gauges are still available at Vintage Speedster (Kirk in USA)  and vintagespeedsterparts.com ( Gaby in Canada) and is available in both Km/h and MPH.

I believe Brazilian VDO gauges went off the market 2011~2012.

1958 Porsche 356A Speedster T2 Replica (The Black Sheila)

"To achieve the impossible, one must think absurd; to look where everyone else has looked, but to see what no one else has seen"

Goose's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 year 2 weeks ago
Joined: 13/10/2014
Mine are also made in China.

Mine are also made in China. If I'm not mistaken I think the new gauges are made in India.

I know I said earlier in this thread that I was going to use different aftermarket gauges, but my mind has changed so many times it is crazy. Buying the reproduction 356 gauges was a bit of an impulse buy. I was in Knysna about two weeks ago and saw a beautiful Speedster replica at the classic car showroom that had just been sold. It had the 4 Smiths gauges I was initially planning to use and it looked pretty good.

FYI the car was really neat and pretty complete in terms of the Porsche bits, wheels etc. and was only missing the correct gauges. That and it had a shine down license plate light with teardrops, not beehives. Still sold for R160 000 which I think is a good price.

 

flatfourfan's picture
Offline
Last seen: 8 months 6 days ago
Joined: 23/02/2015
Now a question. I was asking

Now a question. I was asking Roger this weekend. The guages in question, when we refer to 105mm and 100mm, is that the cut out size, or is that the bezel size?

I've made tubes which are 100mm outside diameter and they seem big. 

Anyone?

1955
2.0 8v Water-Cooled.

manny's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 weeks 3 days ago
Joined: 12/08/2014
flatfourfan wrote:

flatfourfan wrote:

Now a question. I was asking Roger this weekend. The guages in question, when we refer to 105mm and 100mm, is that the cut out size, or is that the bezel size?

I've made tubes which are 100mm outside diameter and they seem big. 

Anyone?

The sizes referred to is the hole size, I hope this helps.

1958 Porsche 356A Speedster T2 Replica (The Black Sheila)

"To achieve the impossible, one must think absurd; to look where everyone else has looked, but to see what no one else has seen"

flatfourfan's picture
Offline
Last seen: 8 months 6 days ago
Joined: 23/02/2015
Spot on...........then I'm

Spot on...........then I'm right them, my new tubes are 100mm outer diameter, so they are spot on. Will update my thread accordingly. 

1955
2.0 8v Water-Cooled.

Goose's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 year 2 weeks ago
Joined: 13/10/2014
Update 13/07/2015

Okay it's been a while since I posted an update, but it's because I've been very busy laugh This is what I've been up to.

image8_0.jpeg

Fitting the instrument eyebrow I got from Manny. The VW speedo and mini gauges had to go! Ditto for the terrible switches.

img_0255.jpg

Measurements for new gauge and switch positions. This all changed a few times during the process.

img_0264.jpg

I had to cut out the dash for the new gauges' holes, as well as where the switches go, as the is was too thick for the switches to be installed properly.

img_0385.jpg

My first time working with glassfibre. Looks like the dog's breakfast, but it all turned out well.

img_0503.jpg

Also the first time I worked with bodyfiller....it took a few attempts to get it to dry properly, but I got it down in the end Smile Holes cut for the gauges using a very dodgy hole cutting tool.

img_0528.jpg

Back from the spray shop...I've decided to keep the car silver. Manny do you recognise your instrument eyebrow?

img_0532.jpg

New gauges and switches installed. I was lucky to get some switches and ivory knobs from a gentleman in town. Ignition switch is from Midas, but it took me going to a few shops to find this one. The other ones they stock are not so good.

img_0534.jpg

I'm really happy with how it turned out. Now I can start looking at leather for the top of the dash. Still working on Porschefying the horn button.

I've also sourced a set of the narrow beetle side trim which is going to round it off nicely once I've removed the flared wheelarches.

And I've managed to convince a gentleman with a real 356 to part with one of his sets of old wheels...theyre a sandblast and a powdercoat away from new. I even get a set of Michelin tyres with it smiley

 

Goose's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 year 2 weeks ago
Joined: 13/10/2014
more...

Oh and I fit some fog lights I got from the same oom that gave me the switches...

.img_0345.jpg

I've been trying to cover it in the yellow Laminex/tape plastic stuff you get from Autostyle but so far I've not managed to make it look good...lots of bubbles and creases...I'm still practising. Soap water, normal water, hair dryer, heat gun? Anyone with tips feel free to share. Also I'm not dure if the stuff I bought is the Laminex one, I think its a cheaper alternative. It's hard to get it to stick to the glass of the fog light seeing as it has a slight curve in it.

Today I also did what I should have done a long time ago...my electric choke on my carburettor was disconnected by previous owners/mechanics, so I removed and tested the spring/resistor thingamajiggie and then fit it again, set up the butterfly on the carb and connected a wire to the choke from the coil. It stared a bit better and idled when it was cold where it usually wouldn't, and the choke definitely opens as it warms up, but then after a few minutes the car stops idling until it gets nice and hot again...i made some adjustments to the carb and will test again tomorrow from cold.

flatfourfan's picture
Offline
Last seen: 8 months 6 days ago
Joined: 23/02/2015
dude, that dash work looks

dude, that dash work looks top notch. The details on it now make a massive difference. Kudos to you. 

 

 

1955
2.0 8v Water-Cooled.

Pages