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Firebird's picture
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1958 356A 1600 Super Speedster

Right, for those of you who aren't familiar with my thread on Aircooled, here goes....

The story so far.

I started this project in 2003, I was not married, I had no kids and I was gainfully employed. My goal was simple: Build a 1:1 scale replica of a Porsche Speedster using the KCC 'kit' as a starting point. I planned to use the exact parts wherever possible and fabricate what I couldn't source. This would be my statement against all the half baked kit cars adorned with Venter trailer number plate lights and Land rover indicators. (and Alpine sound systems, golf door handles and white smiths wheels....) 

Anyway, as I am writing this 2015 is coming to a close. This year I have celebrated 10 years of marriage, my two boys have turned 8 and 9 respectively. I have been working for myself for 8 years. The car started off at my partents house in Edenvale. I then moved it to my new house after I got married. Then to my mother in laws spare garage, then back to my house, then it spent a year at Universal and now it is back in Edenvale. I have sourced almost everything I wanted to put on the car. It has lots of great original parts and lots of very nice fabricated parts. I was the first to do the now famous 'nose job' (it has the more correct nose from a 356A coupe replica grafted to it) I have done the rear seat conversion. I have fitted dual twin choke carburetors to the 1600 engine. I also have two of the finest (second only to Manny's) Speedster seats provided by the masterful Anton Decker who has been instrumental in my involvement with Dutchmann Porsche and Gavin Rooke. 

So life is good.

Except ...

I have had to answer the question; "how's your Porsche coming along?" too many times with the same answer:

"It's actually almost done"

It is.

Almost.

20141228_150805.jpg

Oh, and it's not a Porsche, it just looks like one. It's actually a beetle, and that is not a bad thing.

 

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Things to do...

The list, as it stands at the time of writing, is as follows:

- Remove and relocate the rear lights to the correct position. Fill the old holes. Fit genuine rear lights. Throw away the old lenses which Garth (or Neldo, probably) melted. 

- Correct the foot well. This involves replacing the fuel tank with a replica of the original tank. Once that is done I can reinstate the bonnet floor the way it was when they pulled the moulds from the coupe. With the floor properly placed there should be plenty of space below the tank for the pedals. Reading this back it makes no sense, but trust me.

- Once the interior is structurally 'corrected' I can trace the carpet templates and finish off the interior. I may also elect to recover the dash for teh third time. This time I will apply the vinyl directly to the dash, the way it should be.

- The last thing to do to get the car drivable would be to have someone look at the engine. I have tried several times but I have only managed to find out exactly how little i know about setting up twin barrel carburetors. 

Then come finishing touches....

- Roof? Soft top scissor roof for sure.

- Replace steering wheel

- Replace wheels

- Gages

It's not so bad :) 

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He is back

Hey Roger! good to hear from you it been a while.

I am going through a seismic shift in my life and have not been very active on the forum lately . Part of this seismic shift is that I have resigned from my current employer ending 61/2  years in Angola and soon will be starting a new career in Mozambique which is only a few hundred kilometers from home, that all been said we must seriously plan a get together again this time with speedster's, coupe's and spyder's. my speedster will be done early next year. Bossie's car is complete,  White_356 is complete, Sduduzo​ is complete, Felix is complete and this list goes on could be a big turn out.

1958 Porsche 356A Speedster T2 Replica (The Black Sheila)

"To achieve the impossible, one must think absurd; to look where everyone else has looked, but to see what no one else has seen"

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Brilliant

lol, I never really went away, I was just lurking.

I have decided that I need to start prioritizing my life. I plan to dedicate at the very minimum, 1 weekend a month to working on my car. I have everything I need to get it done, it just all needs to be bolted/glued together. I will hopfully have more time this Dec as well. 

I definitely think we must have a gathering very soon. I was looking at the members on the site and there are some great cars coming together. It's grown into a real community!

 

 

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Firebird wrote:

Firebird wrote:

lol, I never really went away, I was just lurking.

I have decided that I need to start prioritizing my life. I plan to dedicate at the very minimum, 1 weekend a month to working on my car. I have everything I need to get it done, it just all needs to be bolted/glued together. I will hopfully have more time this Dec as well. 

I definitely think we must have a gathering very soon. I was looking at the members on the site and there are some great cars coming together. It's grown into a real community!

 

 

I agree it is growing nicely,  two additional members should be joining soon 

1958 Porsche 356A Speedster T2 Replica (The Black Sheila)

"To achieve the impossible, one must think absurd; to look where everyone else has looked, but to see what no one else has seen"

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So ....

So ....

Two years later.

My strict schedule of working on the car every Saturday started to cause friction with my wife, so long story short, she is now my ex wife yes

Never get divorced. It's a mission, I signed the papers last year round this time and I am just now seeing the dust start to settle and I can start doing the things that make me happy again.

Now... on with the build.

I did start fitting some of the hardware on the rear, after much measuring and head scratching (thanks to measurements from Eugene's car and the reference provided by Manny) I had put the rear lights in the wrong place all those years ago!! Dammit.... 

20150228_134853.jpg

So I need to close the old holes and then cut more holes... this will happen sooon thanks to some assistance from Gary cool 

I also scratched away at the interior a bit. 

 20160807_124024.jpg

mmmm, makes your arms itch doesn't it! (If it doesn't then you haven't 'really' worked on your car, shame)

For those of you wondering why I am doing all this body work on a painted car... yea, I got over that long ago. Once the paint settled in it exposed a myriad of find scratches in the primer. The car was not prepped correctly before being painted and the results are very obvious. So there is that, and having to drill new holes to properly align  things like the bonnet handle, the car now needs more than a simple touch up so I feel rocks for cutting/drilling into the painted body. I will paint it myself properly when everything is done. That was always the plan anyway, things just took longer for that to work out.

I sourced some carpet.

Removed the eBrake in anticipation of the umbrella brake mod I am going to somehow do. (help)

I also replaced the pedals for a better set (Thanks 'Harry') and I have made moulds of the clutch and brake rubber foot pads and I have bought an original rubber accelerator boot.

I have so many versions of modifications to the pedals to make them appear more original but they all require that I lose about 50mm of leg room, which is a problem so I might just leave them stock.

_____________________________________________________________________________

So I haven't actually been that idle but I could have done more ... well I have been really busy on the computer. 

I was fortunate enough to be loaned a pile of original Speedster parts through a client of Exclusive Conversions, Thanks Anton!!

So in the time since my last post I have drawn up a pile of parts and have made 2D and 3D manufacturing drawings for most of them. 

I am still scratching around for a decent manufacturer for some of the trickier parts but I am getting there slowly. If anyone sees anything on here that they need and they know where we can get the stuff made then shout. I am keen to share the drawings on two conditions:

- If something is made from my drawings, I want one.
- Nobody is to use the drawings for commercial gain without my permission.

I have drawn all of this stuff to uplift our community and for the good of this group so we can all have cool cars!

Here is a visual list of the things I have been doing:

A beetle hub to DerringtonA adapter hub thing: 

steering_wheel01.jpg

I had great fun designing the horn button. I have a sneaky idea for how I am going to do the badge. I will post pics if I ever get round to it.

steering_wheel02.jpg

I have drawn up an original fuel tank. It is drawn in such a way the it can be laser cut 1.6mm mild steel or aluminium sheet and welded together. The domed sides are decorative resin end caps which are attached afterwards. I will also machine some fake metal ribs to attach to the correct places and they should look the part once the whole lot is painted.

tank_screen_grab.jpg

Here is a pic of an original tank for comparison. (See the ribs?)new-4.jpg

Right, what else... I also have moulds of the original '55 beehive taillights and I have drawings for the original bezels as well as the horn grills.

Oh yea, and moulds for just about every other rubber on the car. 

I have drawn up the original hood hinges, front and back. These are proving a bit tricky to manufacture because of the sheer number of laser cut parts. 

I am busy drawing up a set of clocks which use a set of easily available internals for speed, odo, tach, fuel and oil temp. 

Here is the 2D layout showing the graphics for the faces. The 3D CAD files are still a work in progress but are almost done.

356_clocks.jpg

I also have 3D files for the bumperettes, should anyone want to machine a set of these from billet aluminium smiley

Yea, so that pretty much sums it up.

Let's go back to that check list and see how I am doing...

Things to do:

- Roof? Soft top scissor roof for sure. - Work in progress, stay tuned....

- Replace steering wheel - Parts being fabricated, fitment very soon.

- Replace wheels - I have the new wheels. I will fit them to the car as one of the last things.

- Instruments - Lots of work still to do. I will post CAD progress as I go.

I also found this list from when first got the car back from Universal:

Speedster TODO list
Bonnet interior:
- CAD up and fabricate battery bracket.
 -Make hinges and fit
- New tank - CAD as per sample - Manufacture
 Make battery recess in bonnet floor
Rear:
- CutDeck lid skin
 - smooth and paint inside of decklid
 - re-route brake reservoir to underneath inspection cover.
- Measure up for rubber matt

- Badges and emblems, 

Make up brackets to attach rear sub frame to the shock towers.

 fix bumpers
smooth underbody and wheelarches
rubberize front underbody and  bonnet area
Uplighter . fit
Make jacking point covers.
Fine tune carbs....again...

Interior:
 Measure up and mock up threshold plates
- Find square weave carpet.
Guages - CAD and fabricate
 Finish carpeting seat backs.
- Door top trim in vinyl
- Pedals and kick board???
- source proper side trim or make from allu bar stock

- Under windscreen chrome trim.
Bumper trim. fit it
-Sound deadening rubber matt insulation??
-Respray/Touch up
- Umbrella e-brake

No sweat ! laugh

20141228_151021.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

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Awesome Update Roger!!!

Awesome Update Roger!!!

As I said on Saterday, make a list of what you need me to help you with and we'll do the whole lot on the 17th. I mainly need to know the sizes of the areas that we need to fill or modify to ensure that I have enough flat stock. I reckon if we have the weather on our side, we can do everything that we need to do in a few hours. 

I will also start the mounting process of the window frame so that I can get the roof frame welded up. Plan is to actually give you the completed frame before the end of March. We also need to work out a price for any extras that we make as I have to throw some money Willems way for the welding. The finishing off I'll do on my side. 

Keep it up. 

 

 

1955
2.0 8v Water-Cooled.

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I plan on doing a bit of prep

I plan on doing a bit of prep this Sat. I will measure everything and make a list.

 

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To do list

Damn! that is a long list. Many of the items I have already some data on, feel free to PM and lets see where I can assist.

I am very keen to see the jacking point covers this is something I have given thought, and is on my list.

The side trim from STODARDS is very nice but the screws are to short for our bodies and will require some  long ones which you will have to reproduce locally another point is that the side trim needs cutting about 15mm on the doors trim as the doors is slightly smaller than the originals,  more than the other if memory serves me correct, lastly it also depend on which door handles is fitted on the speedster. 

Armand and I looked at extrusion but the minimum quantity does not justify the cost.

I will be in SA mid march we must then chat.

 

 

1958 Porsche 356A Speedster T2 Replica (The Black Sheila)

"To achieve the impossible, one must think absurd; to look where everyone else has looked, but to see what no one else has seen"

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manny wrote:

manny wrote:

Armand and I looked at extrusion but the minimum quantity does not justify the cost.

Roger and I looked at buying alli round bar and then just grinding half of it off.........waaaaaaaaaaaay cheaper. 

1955
2.0 8v Water-Cooled.

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The extrusion is only half

The extrusion is only half the problem. (Ignoring the minimum quantity which makes it prohibitable.)

You still need to finish off the ends and there are machined inserts on the flat ends at the door gaps... and some way to attached it with teeny fasteners.

 

 

 

 

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Front trunk interiour mods...

This weekend I began cutting out the recess in the truck where the beetle fuel tank was placed. 

When the 'nose job' front was moulded it had all the original interior details moulded in. Somewhere along the way the decision was made (without me) to fit a beetle tank. This required cutting out the nice original trunk floor and adding in a large recess for the beetle tank. This recess intruded into the footwell and made it difficult to press the clutch pedal with anything larger than a size 3 shoe.

I have been planning to do this un-mod for a while. Here are some pics to show the process. Nothing much to see, just lots of fiberglass dust and itchiness.

Here is a 'before' picture with the tank and brake fluid reservoir in place.

20140202_154635.jpg

20180317_141515.jpg

There you go, it should be reasonably simple to reinstate the panels with flat sheets of fiberglass, a job I don't plan to tackle on my own. Thanks Gary Smile

Stay tuned !

 

 

 

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Can't wait..................dude, I'm itching to get started on

excuse the pun. 

Do you have a picture of the floor under the tank without the fuel tank in place? I'm thinking that it's going to have to be recessed a bit in order to get the tank low enough to clear the hood. Any chance that we can mock up a cardboard box that we can put in place to check clearance?

Is the base of the fuel tank flat of raked?

 

1955
2.0 8v Water-Cooled.

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Cardboard aided design

I will export the model of the tank to CAD as a reference.

The bottom is raked a lot. The surface which supports the tank is flat. I can't find any reference pics of this right now though.

 

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I found some pictures last

I found some pictures last night as I was looking around. I think this gives the best idea of what's under all of that. Please don't' say that you want the ribbing under the tank...lol.

1955
2.0 8v Water-Cooled.

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I like ribbing

I like ribbing Smile

But I will add it myself later when I am feeling energetic.

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We can cut out strips from

We can cut out strips from the flat panel FB and glass them in place..........when I'm trimming stuff up, you can monkey around with the sanding of those strips.....lol. 

PS, STILL don't have my bakkie back.

1955
2.0 8v Water-Cooled.

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What fuel tank to fit?

Roger/Gary I am back form leave and in Moz had to cut my leave short. I am glad to see you guys still posting on the forum we need to get this forum up and running again.

What fuel tank are you planning to install?

The steering column has to be lowered slightly to clear the fuel tank if you planning to install an original tank plus it needs some reinforcement from the steel frame.

If you are planning to replicate a original fuel tank then a recess can be inserted to the tank to clear the steering column. 

I also have CAD detail for the fuel tank straps that KARE laser cut and fabricated for my speedster. they closely replicate the original.

 

246.jpg

 

1958 Porsche 356A Speedster T2 Replica (The Black Sheila)

"To achieve the impossible, one must think absurd; to look where everyone else has looked, but to see what no one else has seen"

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Sorry to hear that you had to

Sorry to hear that you had to cut your stay short.

I am planning on making a replica tank. I had a look at the geometry and the tank clears my steering shaft.

I would love to have a look at the drawing for those straps if you are keen to share. Smile

Looking fwd to Sat. Hopefully I can get out of Fourways early enough to miss the funeral traffic. #fun

 

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We had a very productive

We had a very productive weekend.

Gary and my dad rewired his car with only a little head scratching.

In turn Gary helped me sort out the foot well/trunk interior for my car. The scratching from that job only started later...

The only think better than one Speedie is two Speedies in the same place! 

two_speedies_one_garage.jpg

20180414_131710.jpg

The new footwell panels glassed into place.

20180414_173905.jpg

The pedals are now free to move with full travel. (Seems like this would be obvious...)

20180414_173930.jpg

A great example of CAD. My 'placeholder' tank.

20180414_160238.jpg

20180414_105859.jpg

I am looking forward to the next 'workshop' day. 

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Excellent!

I am impressed with your card board fuel tank awesome stuff, I will send the CAD data for the straps this week you can ask Kare to laser cut and bend the brackets they are pretty good with fabrication work.

1958 Porsche 356A Speedster T2 Replica (The Black Sheila)

"To achieve the impossible, one must think absurd; to look where everyone else has looked, but to see what no one else has seen"

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Thanks Manny 

Thanks Manny yes

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Yeah bud, it was a productive

Yeah bud, it was a productive 2 days. Already got this weekend planned to get the ECU in as well as the EFI wiring harness back in the car so that I can make a start on the fuel lines and water pipes. I'm hoping to be running in a few weeks. 

I reckon we do another pull at your place and finish off the glass work. I do however recommend pulling it out of your folks garage, they're gonna vloek when that car is pulled out. 

1955
2.0 8v Water-Cooled.

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Rear lights

I spent time this weekend carefully measuring for the correct location of the rear lights. I used several references from the web (including the booklet Manny made) and some of my own measurements I had take from an original car. I was expecting to have a situation where there were too many points to choose from. You know, if you have one watch you know the time, if you have two you are never sure... Starting with Manny’s measurements, I scribed all the lines for the reference measurements on the car and marked the positions with a grease marker. I added an arc reference I had taken from an original car. This measurement was taken from the corner of the deck lid to the inboard and outboard screws on the teardrop lights. I then used Manny's horizontal reference line from the bottom of the car. This line intersects the inboard and top outboard screws for the teardrop lights. I did the same with the horizontal reference line for the bottom outboard holes. I then measured 406mm from the centre of the car to the inboard mounting holes. This was confirmed by another measurement I had taken from an original car. Except that the measurement I had taken was measured from the visible inboard screws, not the inboard mounting screws as shown on the drawing. These screws are not visible from the outside of the light housing when it is mounted on the car. The difference is 15mm each side. I decided to use the reference I had taken and add the 15mm either side for the placement of the actual mounting hole. I was pleased to see that all the lines I scribed, and the correction I had made resulted in a series of three separate measurements from three reference points all converging (with an accuracy of about 1mm) on the hole locations. I drilled these holes to save the position. The top outboard holes should be located in the region where the old lights were placed so I will mark them once the old holes are filled. 

My kids and I then set about sanding the area around the old holes in preparation for filling them. We also touched up some other small scratches on the car.

 

teardrop_light_measurement.jpg

This image shows the position on the deck lid recess, where the arc measurements are taken.

20140221_140710.jpg

Here is the measurement to the inboard screw.

20140221_140707.jpg

Here is the measurement to the outboard screw.

20140221_140838.jpg

Here is the measurement taken from centre to centre of the inboard screws.

20140221_140756.jpg

If anyone has some feedback on this I would be keen to hear it before I mount the lights Smile

 

 

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Firebird wrote:

Firebird wrote:

I spent time this weekend carefully measuring for the correct location of the rear lights. I used several references from the web (including the booklet Manny made) and some of my own measurements I had take from an original car. I was expecting to have a situation where there were too many points to choose from. You know, if you have one watch you know the time, if you have two you are never sure... Starting with Manny’s measurements, I scribed all the lines for the reference measurements on the car and marked the positions with a grease marker. I added an arc reference I had taken from an original car. This measurement was taken from the corner of the deck lid to the inboard and outboard screws on the teardrop lights. I then used Manny's horizontal reference line from the bottom of the car. This line intersects the inboard and top outboard screws for the teardrop lights. I did the same with the horizontal reference line for the bottom outboard holes. I then measured 406mm from the centre of the car to the inboard mounting holes. This was confirmed by another measurement I had taken from an original car. Except that the measurement I had taken was measured from the visible inboard screws, not the inboard mounting screws as shown on the drawing. These screws are not visible from the outside of the light housing when it is mounted on the car. The difference is 15mm each side. I decided to use the reference I had taken and add the 15mm either side for the placement of the actual mounting hole. I was pleased to see that all the lines I scribed, and the correction I had made resulted in a series of three separate measurements from three reference points all converging (with an accuracy of about 1mm) on the hole locations. I drilled these holes to save the position. The top outboard holes should be located in the region where the old lights were placed so I will mark them once the old holes are filled. 

My kids and I then set about sanding the area around the old holes in preparation for filling them. We also touched up some other small scratches on the car.

 

teardrop_light_measurement.jpg

This image shows the position on the deck lid recess, where the arc measurements are taken.

20140221_140710.jpg

Here is the measurement to the inboard screw.

20140221_140707.jpg

Here is the measurement to the outboard screw.

20140221_140838.jpg

Here is the measurement taken from centre to centre of the inboard screws.

20140221_140756.jpg

If anyone has some feedback on this I would be keen to hear it before I mount the lights Smile

 

 

I believe there is two ways to measure  Iused a rail and laser I did not follow the body profile , if I may ask how far out on x and z was my dimensions from the original?

 

1958 Porsche 356A Speedster T2 Replica (The Black Sheila)

"To achieve the impossible, one must think absurd; to look where everyone else has looked, but to see what no one else has seen"

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Hi Manny

Hi Manny

Sorry for the late reply, I wanted to update the diagram but I can see I am never going to get around to it so very quickly, here are the dims I used.

The measurements I took from Eugene's original Speedster show that the horizontal distance between the inboard exposed screws on the teardrop lights is 810mm. 

The distance from the exposed bezel screws and the inboard mounting bold is 15mm. So the distance should be 405+15=420 or 840mm appart.

In the end I had to trust that the measurements I had taken myself from an original car were accurate. Ie. 810 +(15+15)=840mm

I checked these against other reference dimensions I had taken that day and they all correlate to the same locations. These lined up with the height dimensions on the 2014 Replica trim PDF so this was enough for me to be sure I was not way off with my measurements.

I have since installed the new lights and compared the placement with some visual reference points and they seem to be in the right location this time. The main reference which is obvious is that the exposed inboard screws fall exactly on the vertical tangent of the deck lid. I also noticed that the lights dip down to the outside. I checked this with other reference images and this seems to be normal even though I didn’t notice it before.

I have attached more images of the rear glasswork etc. And some pics showing the manufacture of a steering wheel adapter I finally got round to making.

Enjoy.

20181012_111506.jpg

20181013_110552.jpg20181021_121534.jpg

20181021_162606.jpg

20181117_122719.jpg

20181117_144020.jpg

20181117_185440.jpg

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Appologies for being so quiet

Appologies for being so quiet. I have load of pics I need to upload and lots of updates.... need more time !!!

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This is what the car looks

20190119_145937_crop.jpg

This is what the car looks like as of Jan 2019. Since then I have drawn up a replica tank and I have been trying to get it fabricated. I have also been machining parts for the gauges.

badge_milling.jpg
I also machined a badge for the new steering wheel, it turned out okay but I know I can do better.

I will try again as soon as I get a chance. 

Here is also a picture of the side trim being machined. After having a look at another original car I decided that the beetle trim is just not going to do it. I couldn't find the aluminium section that is used on the original cars so I bought a batch of round bar and hachined half of it away for make the correct section.

side_trim.jpg